Need help about DEVO 10 can't power up

I have just flashed the V3 Deviation firmware onto my DEVO 10. I have played around for a couple of hours but it suddenly respond really slow and I tried to turn it off and on again. However after I turned it off I couldn't turn it on again. Just no sound, nothing on screen.

I tried to pull off the battery, replace with new aa, tried to enter the USB mode to reflash the firmware but nothing seems work. After all I open the case up and check if any component is damaged. While I am comparing other DEVO 10 open up photos, I noticed that seems one capacitor is missing. I am not sure if it cause the problem but I could not find that missing cap anywhere in the TX case.

Just like this


My TX



the TX I found on the net

Thanks everyone's respond about my problem.

The Devo 10 is quite new that it is about only three-days old. I have tried to hover my V120D02S with the stock firmware and everything seems fine.

As I read a lot about the benefits of the Deviation firmware, I decided to flash it onto my TX. After flashing it the TX still works and I can still hover my little heli with it.

Just today while I am playing with the Mixing functions, the TX just make a couple of beeps and responds really slow to my buttons input and dead after I turned it off.

So thanks for all of you confirming about the capacitor, I am trying troubleshoot it. I am following PhracturedBlue's instruction:

1. I tried to dis and re-connect the battery then turn on while pressing the EXT button in order to boot in programming mode, no luck.

2. Then I opened it up, located the on-off switch connector, unplug it and tried to short the pins in the connector on the board to boot it up, tried top-middle, middle-low. No luck at all (every attempt was carried up after dis-reconnect battery)

So now I came to the step of shorting the pads, however I am not sure which pad to short. I don't want to blow my board by shorting wrong things. So would you mind showing me which one to short?
To make it easier I use different colors to identify them




I will get a multimeter to measure the V across the two pins and the ground of the cap pins. Thanks for all again

Thanks PhracturedBlue again. Something miracle happened today! After leaving the TX with the battery disconnected for a whole day, the TX powered up again!! To be safe I am going to perform a clean flash again.

I think you are right. Same thing happened to the DEVO 10 again tonight after I re flashed the V3.0 firmware. Luckily I am not flying my heli when it happened. While I am navigating through the menu, the TX suddenly slow down and became very laggy and it turned itself off eventually, and of course I couldn't turn it on afterwards. May be need another day. Sigh...

I will flash it back to the original Walkera firmware for my next start up

Today I am able to power it up again after 6 hrs of waiting. Then I reflashed the stock fw and lib downloaded from Walkera.

My Tx works for a longer period like for about an hour, however then the TX frozen this time and can't press anything but cut the power.




I decided to open it again and do the Voltage test. I can confirm that the power wiring is working (red - black wire is the battery voltage measure from the plug to the board)

And next I test the on off switch by measuring the resistance between the pins of the plug from the switch. While switch is on, the red and yellow wire is connected and when the switch is off, the black and yellow wire is connected. So I think it the problem is irrelevant to the switch.

And next step I measure the voltage across the pins that you have mentioned. It is 10.8 V between the left pin to the ground of Cap, same as the left pin to the ground. So there is no V different between the left and right pin. Then I shorted them but seems it doesn't do anything.





I removed most of the plugs and the module from the board for further visual inspection. However during the removal of the module , the antenna plug and the antenna cable separated although I treated it with care, also I noticed the module itself is still warm (2 mins after power cut). So I suspected the cable might be broken before I remove the module and caused the module to over heat and the TX shut down.

So obviously I have to reconnect them. But not sure about the connection. Is it a coaxial cable? So the center wire connect to the center pin of the plug and the shield to the outer case of the plug? shall I solder it (it is a bit challenging) or just clamp it back?






For the motherboard, I have noticed there are a few soldering marks, not sure if these related to the TX to frozen.





At last I noticed there are two legs being soldered together on the ARM chip, is it a defect or normal?

Thanks for your reply. I was thinking the same as well. Now I have removed the module from the board to prevent it burn out. But before trying this, I have to wait a couple of hours to let the TX to "Cool down" otherwise can't power it up. I have tried to short the caps after the power disconnected but seems there are other ram that hold the TX up powered by some unknown cap

Thanks, I just bought it from some cheap vendors, however I can tell the case is new. I realized about the broken seal after I opened it up so can't tell about the seal. But you know in China these seal can be bought everywhere.

But what make me suspect the main board has been replaced is the condition of the main circuit board. The board has some uneven oxidation marks on them, possibly due to its age (very minor but noticeable, comparing with the PCB of the LCD and the switches). But I have just bought it!! . So may be I am just unlucky about it.

I Think so , now I am able to turn it on again (this time TX module is removed)
But it reacts super slow.... have you seen anything before like this?