V977.ini for Jumper T8SG Plus v2

This is a cross posted message from the RC groups that I put out on the v977 in a Yellow Jumper T8SG Plus v2.

Ok I modified Bird Barbers v977.ini for the Jumper T8SG Plus v2. The original thread is here:
www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=6989

I have an issue with the display where the trims are displayed improperly on the OLED screen but it works o.k.

It looks like the file was hacked from Florida Heli's V930 file. My lower right horizontal trim indicator is the rudder which is usually the aileron in mode 2. The lower left that is ordinarily the rudder trim is actually the elevator trim. The right vertical line is the aileron trim which is ordinarily the elevator trim. The left vertical throttle/collective I haven't messed with and the V977 is flyable in 6G form with this file with me even though the trim display is dorked. Works O.K.

I went out in the tall grass with a landing pad and was ready for the 977 to go katty wumpus. Was anti-climactic. Popped it up and just a few trim changes and I was fast hovering around the front yard and street. Behaves better than the stock WL tranny and doesn't chase the throttle collective.

Aside from the trim indications being messed up on the Jumper T8SG Plus v2 screen, I changed the volatile countdown timer 1 to reset with G0. Pop the G switch "down" or "back" with the transmitter held more or less horizontal and pull the switch back forward and it will be ready to count down again when the throttle/collective is increased. I programmed 7 minutes but anyone can change it easily.

And now............ The switch explanations for beginners on the Jumper T8SG Plus v2 starting from right to left:

The "A" switch" A0 all the way up is the kill switch or "off". Can play around with the controls all you want without the main motor firing up

Bird Barber's file had this set as "armed" or "on" all the way up and "off" one click down. I set it to suit my taste.

A1 or one click down, is armed and ready to go with the file listed below.

The "C" switch is C0 all the way up is supposed to be idle up "off" and one click down C1 is idle up "on". This switch really only has an effect if the "D" switch is set for 3D. You can test it safely by having the "A" switch set to A0 disarmed and the "C" switch to C1 along with the D switch set for 3D.
It works as advertised. With the D switch in the 3D mode, you will see a much broader pitch curve without the main motor taking your head off as long as the A switch is set all the way "up" or A0!

Ewwwww kay. the "D" switch. The D switch is for 3D/6G and I just so happened to guess right when I had my anti-climactic test flights. (Getting cold out there now so I did a one quickie outside to have room to recover if necessary and then went into the basement when I found it was manageable.)
D0 or all the way "up" is "3D". Remember that 'cause if you're a beginner and if you haven't levelled your swash in that setting, you don't want to go there just yet. D1 or one click down is "6G" which is where beginners want to be. The "C" switch really doesn't do anything unless the "D" switch is set for 3D.

Now, the "B" switch is advertised as a "pitch" travel. Quite frankly I didn't see much of anything except with the 3D engaged ("D0") and idle up on ("C1"). "B0" gave a teensy bit more positive pitch while in that 3D idle up on mode but it doesn't do anything otherwise if someone wants to tool around in 6G mode. So when in 6G don't have to worry about the "B" switch.

So to summarize the Jumper T8SG Plus v2 with the v977 with the modified (bird barber's) file

A0 is a kill switch disarmed or off (rotor won't kill you)
A1 is armed and ready to fly (one click down)

C0 is idleup off (doesn't do anything in 6G)
C1 is idelup on (one click down and doesn't do anything in 6G)

D0 is 3D (beginners with more money than sense stay away from that setting)
D1 is 6G or one click down which for beginners like me is where one wants to be.

B or the "pitch travel" doesn't do much except I saw just a "hair" more positive pitch in 3D mode AND idle up on ("C1") when the switch
was set at "B1" not much was seen though. In 6G mode a beginner doesn't need to worry about this switch.

Hope this helps out with using the Jumper T8SG Plus v2 with the V977. I was in a "screw it" mood tonight and had done a bench test of my 977
with this file earlier in the week. That means exercising the switches while holding on to it. Diddled with the A switch so "up" is disarmed and went at it.
My 977 had been flying on a stock WL tranny and I have 4 k110's so I felt I should "screw it" and sink or swim on the V977 in the Jumper.
Turns out it swam pretty well although I'd like to see if I can figure out the pitch curve settings a bit more on this crappy KN protocol.

Soooooooooooooooo, for Joe beginner with this file: A switch all the way "up". C switch all the way "up". B switch (doesn't matter really in 6G) all the way up. D switch and this is really important for beginners, one click down or D1 for 6G. Have the G switch up for the timer to count down and will be ready to fly (except one has to do one click down on the A switch or "A1" to allow the main motor to fire up.) Me off to bed now. Cheers and have fun.
I gots all my ships in the Jumper now an me be happy. Now on to the T12!!!!!!!!!!!!! Kurt

(Change v977.txt to model"x".ini for one's Jumper tranny and should be good to try)

I played around with the channels and found out what they did.

Ch5: Dual rate
Ch6: TH. Hold
Ch7: 3D/6G
Ch8: Idle/3D
Ch9: pitch trim
Ch10: aileron trim
Ch11: elevator trim

Tried to map the channels to my T8SG V2+ so that it would still have the same configuration to the WLToys Tx (shoulder switches at least)

The only trim I mapped is the pitch(ch9) since I find it more usefull than the others. Mapped it to AUX4. I'd leave 10 and 11 alone and just do a manual swash adjustment.

Apart from the trims, just use a simple MIN/MAX mixer settings on the other channels since they're just on/off switches.

So for anyone who might be interested in configuring out their own settings for v977, just do 11ch setting and map these channels to your preferred switches.