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Removing shield and diode 7E for better reach

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18 Jan 2015 07:17 #27790 by mammothtarm
Replied by mammothtarm on topic Removing shield and diode 7E for better reach
BTW, Do you know of a Hubsan X4 ini file that mimics the stock set up? I want a swith to control Normal mode and Expert. Thanks in advance!!!

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18 Jan 2015 13:37 - 05 Feb 2015 16:42 #27801 by aMax

robca wrote: ....

But, even if it made a difference, it would not be worth doing, since you can't fly the X4 far enough to make a difference :) that's why some people use a A7105 without a power amplifier (I did for a while, had more than enough range to completely lose orientation well before the X4 was out of radio range)

Since the diode mod is one of the most difficult mods (much harder than adding switches and modules, even if you use the conductive ink trick), I'd avoid doing it if you don't plan to use DSMX or Walkera (at least for now, can always do it hen needed)


Just to give you an impression how tiny this part is .
The piece of money is one Euro. So please think twice how to do this mod.

Devo7e, TaranisQ X7, 4in1 MM, Futaba FC18plusV3.1/DFT/FLD-02
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Last edit: 05 Feb 2015 16:42 by aMax. Reason: spelling...;-)

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03 Feb 2015 16:32 - 03 Feb 2015 16:35 #28383 by karl007
Replied by karl007 on topic Removing shield and diode 7E for better reach
Hey guys..

thanks for this hack, its great.

sadly i had a problem on soldering the short. After soldering, I test the tightness of the soldered short-wire and wrenched off the upper solderpoint :(

Finaly I solder a short from the bottom solderpoint to the left solderpoint of the diode above (like the arrow in picture).





My problem is, that nothing works. I cant change the transmitter-power in the settings (stays on default) and I get no connection to my receiver :(

Is there another conductor from the upper solderpoint than I see?

Anyone a suggestion for me?

Thanks in advance.

kind regards, Thorsten
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Last edit: 03 Feb 2015 16:35 by karl007.

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03 Feb 2015 17:30 - 03 Feb 2015 17:49 #28384 by aMax
That´s a photo from HackMods, isn´t it?

Check if part on the left, next to the lower diode solder pad, is right in place.
The described connection will work because I can´t see a through-connection
at the upper pad.







Edit: Did you edit the hardware.ini?

Devo7e, TaranisQ X7, 4in1 MM, Futaba FC18plusV3.1/DFT/FLD-02
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Last edit: 03 Feb 2015 17:49 by aMax.

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03 Feb 2015 20:18 #28386 by karl007
Replied by karl007 on topic Removing shield and diode 7E for better reach
Hi aMax.

Thanks for your fast reply!

Photo is from HackMods, right.

First after my post, I thought to recheck everything again and rebind the receiver, and
tada.. the connection works. :oops:

So the first problem solved.

Second problem was the unchanged tx.ini, so, now I can change the tx power.
So, thank you very much for your help, aMax.

The only think I'll be worried about, is a very low buzz and if I increase the tx-power, the buzz increases. Mainly at 100 and 150mW.

Is this normal? I had the shield of, could that be the reason?

kind regards, Thorsten

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03 Feb 2015 21:25 - 03 Feb 2015 21:29 #28389 by aMax
Please put the shield back on....

Since this nightly, ...devo7e-v4.0.1-92e1705....the buzzing sound has gone.

Btw, I had this buzzing even before the mod.

Devo7e, TaranisQ X7, 4in1 MM, Futaba FC18plusV3.1/DFT/FLD-02
Last edit: 03 Feb 2015 21:29 by aMax.

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05 Feb 2015 09:21 #28407 by karl007
Replied by karl007 on topic Removing shield and diode 7E for better reach
Hey Guys.

I can change the transmitter power (set to 150mw), get the buzzing sound (I'm on the last stable now), so something happens inside, but the range is decreased.

I got only 30 to 50m instead of 70-80m before the mod.

Something goes wrong. How can I find out what and how I can solve it?


kind regards, Thorsten

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05 Feb 2015 11:13 #28409 by Durete
After 2 days waiting to dry the conductive ink, today I tested outside my range Mod with conductive ink.
I tested with an Spektrum AR6100E, it's a Parkflyer receiver so don't expect a fantastic range. I loose signal at about 120 meters.
Do you think the mod is working?

Sorry, but I forget to test before mod the cyrf module :blush:

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05 Feb 2015 13:29 - 05 Feb 2015 14:04 #28413 by aMax

karl007 wrote: Hey Guys.

I can change the transmitter power (set to 150mw), get the buzzing sound (I'm on the last stable now), so something happens inside, but the range is decreased.

I got only 30 to 50m instead of 70-80m before the mod.

Something goes wrong. How can I find out what and how I can solve it?


kind regards, Thorsten


Please do a range test at 100uW and report.
I already told, you get rid of the buzz with the nightly of 01 Aug 2014.

BTW.. at this range I am flying at 10mW (even 03mW possible)

Keep in mind, that the china toys are mostly at 0dBm or with a good antenna
at 2dBm (0dBm=1mW; 2dBm=1.58 mW).

The standart Devo7e claimed to be at 9dBm=7.9mW at max.

EDIT:
Data sheet indicates,the CYRF6936 itself has a transmit power up to +4 dBm, which is 2.5 mW without PA.

That´s a job for Seby and his RF power meter.... ;)

Devo7e, TaranisQ X7, 4in1 MM, Futaba FC18plusV3.1/DFT/FLD-02
Last edit: 05 Feb 2015 14:04 by aMax.

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05 Feb 2015 14:20 - 05 Feb 2015 14:22 #28414 by aMax
@Durete

Is this your RF modul...?
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1918045&page=185
What Rev is it? ? Imprint "0314" on the modul. Must be a never version, I don´t have that.

Devo7e, TaranisQ X7, 4in1 MM, Futaba FC18plusV3.1/DFT/FLD-02
Last edit: 05 Feb 2015 14:22 by aMax.

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05 Feb 2015 14:43 - 05 Feb 2015 14:51 #28415 by aMax
@karl007
...aaarg. :oops: ..forgot to reply your main question.
Take a MM and messure the current draw of the tx at different power settings.
Should raise round about 60mA from low to top mW output.

Devo7e, TaranisQ X7, 4in1 MM, Futaba FC18plusV3.1/DFT/FLD-02
Last edit: 05 Feb 2015 14:51 by aMax.

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05 Feb 2015 15:23 #28416 by Durete

aMax wrote: @Durete

Is this your RF modul...?
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1918045&page=185
What Rev is it? ? Imprint "0314" on the modul. Must be a never version, I don´t have that.


Yes, it's my Module. I have my Devo from about 2 months ago, so probably the Cyrf module is one of latest version.
I need to check with another full range receiver, or with my DX7 to see if another receiver make the difference.
Anyone knows the power output for the DX7?
If I remember ok, the USA version (I bought imported from USA) have 100mw...

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05 Feb 2015 15:36 - 05 Feb 2015 15:55 #28418 by aMax

Durete wrote:

aMax wrote: @Durete

Is this your RF modul...?
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1918045&page=185
What Rev is it? ? Imprint "0314" on the modul. Must be a never version, I don´t have that.


Yes, it's my Module. I have my Devo from about 2 months ago, so probably the Cyrf module is one of latest version.
I need to check with another full range receiver, or with my DX7 to see if another receiver make the difference.
Anyone knows the power output for the DX7?
If I remember ok, the USA version (I bought imported from USA) have 100mw...


DX7EU nearly 108mW, DX7US nearly 230mW, hence it´s difficult to compare with the Devo.

Edit: If you like to know more, visit....
www.modellbau-tester.de/spektrum-dx7-dop...-natuerlich-illegal/
Google translate assists you....

Devo7e, TaranisQ X7, 4in1 MM, Futaba FC18plusV3.1/DFT/FLD-02
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Last edit: 05 Feb 2015 15:55 by aMax.

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05 Feb 2015 16:01 #28419 by Durete
So my DX7 have about 230mw :silly:

Thanks!

I will report with future tests, but probably next week I will remove the shield of the Cyrf module to check everything is ok.
Probably, finally I will solder the bridge at the diode if I'm not sure the mod is working with the conductive ink.

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05 Feb 2015 16:29 - 05 Feb 2015 16:32 #28420 by aMax
Easest way is to use smd 0 ohm bridge. Have a look at a defect PC(GFX) card.
This part is pre-tinned and rest flat on the pads.
If pressed down with e.g. a scalpel, it will not move while soldering.

Hot and short soldering (max 1.5-2 sec) will guide you to sucess.
(apply few flux prior on the pads)

This is more easy than with thin wire.

Edit:
These old cards are alway good for training and test runs.... :whistle:

Devo7e, TaranisQ X7, 4in1 MM, Futaba FC18plusV3.1/DFT/FLD-02
Last edit: 05 Feb 2015 16:32 by aMax.

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05 Feb 2015 17:19 #28421 by Durete
Thanks for the tips!
Not needed to re-use components, I'm pretty sure we will have some 0402 SMT components at my company's lab :)
Next Thursday I have some free time at work and will "re-mod" my module :)

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07 Feb 2015 12:41 - 10 Feb 2015 19:44 #28432 by karl007
Replied by karl007 on topic Removing shield and diode 7E for better reach
I upgraded to the last nightly, and the buzzing sound was gone, great.

But the tx-power was not better. I messure the ampers between the plus pole from the battery to the tx, and the value change around 60mw, so it seems it is OK.

But the rage is not OK. With 3mw i get a signal in 1 meter distance, after 1m, the connection brakes.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

best regards, Thorsten

Edit: Add a Image, maybe someone see my fault.

Attachments:
Last edit: 10 Feb 2015 19:44 by karl007.

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10 Feb 2015 19:47 #28547 by karl007
Replied by karl007 on topic Removing shield and diode 7E for better reach
Anyone an idea?

Readd the image in the above post.

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11 Feb 2015 16:18 - 11 Feb 2015 16:24 #28566 by aMax
First impression, you did not clean the board.
To much solder splashes at different place.

What is below this enormous solder blob? ... a trace...!
May this trace get even in contact with the blob? Is there a short?
The best way is to remove all this, clean the board, inspect the traces and
then apply a bridge from solid thin silver or copper wire.

Last option, exchange the current module with the spare Devo 8/12-s module.


www.hacksmods.com/tag/devo-7e/

Devo7e, TaranisQ X7, 4in1 MM, Futaba FC18plusV3.1/DFT/FLD-02
Last edit: 11 Feb 2015 16:24 by aMax. Reason: link added

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12 Feb 2015 11:21 - 12 Feb 2015 11:24 #28590 by Arakon
The trace is protected, unless he scratched it up badly, there's no way it would have contact.
And I think the solder splashes you see are actually light reflections in the flux remains (which should be removed with alcohol, as flux is corrosive over time).. I thought it was solder too at first.
From an electrical point of view, his connection is sound.. he bridges the left contact pad of the diode to the capacitor, which is connected to the right pad of the diode.
Nontheless, I'd get a multimeter and check if there's an actual good connection (without unusual resistance) between the points. You can just see a line where the fresh solder blob connects to the solder that was already there, which may indicate that the solder didn't connect properly (cold solder spot).
Last edit: 12 Feb 2015 11:24 by Arakon.

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