Devo7e work

FDR wrote:

Xermalk wrote: Seems the only way might be to remove the diode with a Surgical knife and then somehow bridge it. Either with solder, or some form of electrically conductive glue or paint.

You dont have to revome it, but just short: place a tiny piece of wire on the top of it and add a bit of solder on...

I would, but my soldering station isnt made for smd stuff. My soldering tips are huge compared to all the tiny components in here.

I could always put a tiny drop of solder on a needle, and then heat it and bridge the diode. Just need to figure out a way to hold everything inplace.

If you have some kynar wire or Alarm cable you could solder across with that.
Strip a short length but keep enough to hold on to.

SadSack wrote: If you have some kynar wire or Alarm cable you could solder across with that.
Strip a short length but keep enough to hold on to.

The issue is still getting the heat down on only the diode. The diode is ~0.5mm wide, most likely less. And theres no room what so ever to the component next to it.

Im actually really worried about unintentionally bridging the diode with the component just below it. If im of even by a fraction ill hit it.

Make an 'L' shape in wire and heat wire, pre-tin wire and heat wire.
or
If you have some old motors or some Mag wire or piano wire or thin'ish copper wire. Bind some to end of your solder iron. If your you make it so its 'U' you can heat both side of diode at once then pinch it with tweezers and lift diode out.

There, modification done, at 3 mw power i now have have signal through 2 walls and a floor. At 300uW i seem to have coverage at 4m through a wall.
It is to late however for a proper outdoor range test.

What i did was to take two copper strands from one of the wires inside a rj45 cable. They arent much thicker then 3 strands of hair.

I then added a drop of tin and used the wire strand to hold everything when i fixated it. To unsolder all i have to do is reheat and pull it of.

There is solder + the wire across both ends on the diode but i can easily remove the solder if something is left over with a surgical knife.

The hardest part was holding the iron dead steady to not hit any of the surrounding components.

Ill charge the nikon camera and see if i can get a clear photo of it. My S2 really dislikes focusing on something this small.

Xermalk wrote:

SadSack wrote: If you have some kynar wire or Alarm cable you could solder across with that.
Strip a short length but keep enough to hold on to.

The issue is still getting the heat down on only the diode. The diode is ~0.5mm wide, most likely less. And theres no room what so ever to the component next to it.

Im actually really worried about unintentionally bridging the diode with the component just below it. If im of even by a fraction ill hit it.

This is what I use.
www.tme.eu/en/katalog/?art=D-B8

Very small tip, I can solder 0402 packages very easily when using magnification. Never tried smaller though.

It's 12V powered and I use my battery charger's power supply. Order 2-3 replacement tips as well, good to have them handy.

I ussualy dont solder at all. And my only prior smd experience was with my led blades for my 250.

Hence why iv never bothered to get the proper tools for smd soldering.

Anyway pictures attached, had to make sure i actually hadn't shorted the component next to it. But all is ok as theres room for my knife between them.

Removing the bridging might be somewhat difficult though. But as i used leaded solder its melting temperature is lower then the lead free stuff walkera has used, making it much easier. Its the reason i can just heat and lift of most of the solder.

Edit: If anyone asks me to do this again im going to completely refuse, This stuff is just to small for me.

PhracturedBlue wrote: This is the diode that needs to be shorted:

I haven't tried it yet though, so no guarantees. Worst case is you need to replace it with an 8s module.

Soldering in a $10 8s telemetry module solves the 7E range issue??
Is there something like a wiring diagram?

dehalo wrote:

PhracturedBlue wrote: This is the diode that needs to be shorted:

I haven't tried it yet though, so no guarantees. Worst case is you need to replace it with an 8s module.

Soldering in a $10 8s telemetry module solves the 7E range issue??
Is there something like a wiring diagram?

It should work, noone has tested it yet.

Whats the recommended volt level for the low battery alarm? iv have mine set at 4.8v (using 2700mah nimh batterys).

Edit: just did a range test in the dark.

10 mW gives 100M range compared to stock that gave 80m at 150.

150mw seem to give ~150m.
Not quite sure here as i actually ran out of space. Only had the choice of going behind a hill or a building, but the signal wasn't strong enough to pass through my body.

I'll do a 100mw range test tomorrow when it isnt pitch black and bloody freezing.

Regardless, the distance is now fully acceptable for my Master CP.

Edit2: These range tests were done with the shield still off and in a residential area with a couple of wifi routers around.

PB, if the 8s module were to be added in a similar fashion to the A7105 (using SWD pins), could there be a "simple" way of keeping both the 7E module and the 8s module and toggling between them (power draw mainly) perhaps by having two protocols defined? eg., devo protocol and devo-EXT protocol?

Just wondering if the 7E module needs to be removed due to conflict, or whether they can co-exist. I guess if an 8s module is used you can theoretically just boost or lower the gain on it rather than using the 7E module instead, just thinking of "easier" ways for less experienced hackers to get range mods happening.


Xermalk, looking forward to your findings, your results thus far sound promising.

SadSack wrote: dc59

Kinda odd this. I tried using your ini and worked kinda but pitch was upside down. Which was a little odd.
I'm wondering if you have WK servo's installed as they work wrong way round. I had to swap pots wires around when i used HK servos to make them behave like WK servos. Hoping it's not needed anymore to be honest

You can try to change pitch to "Reversed"(mixer->ch6->Reverse->"Reversed") then pitch would be correct!
My G-CP is all stock,it works very well with that ini file ~~

dc59 wrote:

SadSack wrote: dc59

Kinda odd this. I tried using your ini and worked kinda but pitch was upside down. Which was a little odd.
I'm wondering if you have WK servo's installed as they work wrong way round. I had to swap pots wires around when i used HK servos to make them behave like WK servos. Hoping it's not needed anymore to be honest

You can try to change pitch to "Reversed"(mixer->ch6->Reverse->"Reversed") then pitch would be correct!
My G-CP is all stock,it works very well with that ini file ~~

I'm getting there slowly and have to say your ini has helped my understanding greatly. I have managed a flight but that mostly showed me i need hardware setting up, never flew it after putting HK servos on. And that's where I'm at finding best way for me to setup heli with deviationtx. I can see why Walkera wanted to drop older protocols in and how much work PB putting in to this, Thanks again.

Just updated to the lastest build and noticed that the curve graphs are missing in normal mode.

Also, the battery voltage seems to be of. Its listing my pack as 4.8V when infact its 5.45 according to my multimeter. With the charger connected its listed as 5.3V when it should be around 6V.

The voltage was somewhat accurate before i updated. Have you changed anything in the past 10-15 updates?